A little hissing during introductions? Fairly common. Full-on chasing, yowling, or fur flying? That’s when most owners start to panic.
The truth is: cats don’t “fall out” for no reason. Fighting is usually a response to stress, fear, competition, pain, or poor introductions. Once you understand the trigger, you can nearly always reduce conflict—and in many homes, stop it entirely.
First: Is It Fighting or Rough Play?
Cats can look dramatic even when they’re just playing. Use these cues to tell the difference.
More likely play
- Taking turns chasing
- Short bursts with breaks
- Ears mostly forward, loose body language
- Minimal vocalising
- No one is cornered and both cats re-engage willingly
More likely a real fight
- Screaming or yowling, prolonged hissing or growling
- One cat constantly trying to escape or hide
- Flattened ears, stiff body, puffed tail
- Clumps of fur, scratches, bites, or toileting accidents
- Blocking resources such as food, water, litter trays, or doorways
If you’re unsure, assume it’s serious and manage it safely.
Why Cats Fight: The Most Common Causes
1) Territory and “home ownership”
Cats are incredibly place-oriented. A new cat, a house move, builders, or even rearranging furniture can make the home feel “wrong”, triggering defensive behaviour.
What helps:
- Give each cat their own base camp space (bed, blanket, hiding spot)
- Add vertical territory such as shelves, cat trees, and window perches
- Spread resources around the home so one cat can’t guard everything
2) Resource guarding (food, litter, attention)
Many conflicts aren’t personal—they’re strategic. If one cat starts controlling key areas, the other may respond with avoidance or aggression.
Easy rule: provide more resources than cats.
- Multiple feeding stations
- Several water bowls or a fountain
- Multiple resting spots
- Multiple scratching options
- Litter trays in different locations, not lined up together
A clean, low-stress toilet area matters more than people realise. A consistent routine and a tidy tray setup—such as using Pacha Litter—can help keep the litter area inviting and reduce friction around high-value spots.
3) Redirected aggression (the “wrong target” problem)
This is one of the most common and misunderstood triggers. A cat gets fired up by something they can’t reach—another cat outside, a loud noise, a bird at the window—and then lashes out at the nearest moving thing.
What helps:
- Don’t try to cuddle or pick up an aroused cat
- Quietly create space and let them calm down
- Block visual triggers with blinds, frosted film, or moving the perch
4) Fear and lack of confidence
Some cats fight because they feel trapped. Common fear triggers include:
- No hiding routes
- Being cornered in a hallway
- Another cat staring or stalking
What helps:
- Create escape lanes with shelves and multiple exits
- Add covered beds and cardboard boxes in calm areas
- Avoid forcing interactions
5) Social tension (not “dominance” in the way people think)
Cats do negotiate boundaries, but it’s rarely a simple hierarchy. Often it’s about comfort zones: who gets the sofa corner, who passes first in the hallway, who sits by the window.
What helps:
- Reduce pressure by increasing space and resources
- Build positive associations
- Avoid “letting them sort it out” if one cat is clearly distressed
6) Pain, illness, or age-related discomfort
A cat who is sore may swat or growl when approached—especially if the other cat is energetic. Arthritis, dental pain, tummy issues, urinary discomfort, and skin irritation can all lower tolerance.
What helps:
- Book a vet check if aggression appears suddenly
- Watch for subtle signs such as hiding, reduced jumping, or toileting changes
What to Do in the Moment (Without Making It Worse)
Never put your hands between fighting cats.
Instead:
- Create a sudden distraction such as a single clap or dropping a cushion nearby
- Use a barrier like a cushion, cardboard, or laundry basket
- Herd one cat into another room using calm movements
- Give both cats time to settle before reintroducing the space
Avoid shouting, spraying water, or punishment. These usually increase fear and can teach cats that the other cat predicts something negative.
The Fix: A Practical Plan to Reduce Fighting
Step 1: Reset the environment
For one to two weeks, assume stress is high:
- Separate cats when unsupervised if fights are intense
- Provide multiple resources in separate zones
- Add vertical space and hiding spots
- Keep routines predictable
Step 2: Create positive associations
You want each cat to think: “When the other cat appears, good things happen.”
- Offer high-value treats when they’re calm in the same space
- Keep sessions short and frequent
- End on a neutral note before tension rises
Step 3: Use structured play to drain tension
- Daily wand toy sessions lasting five to ten minutes
- Finish with a small snack to complete the hunt sequence
- Give each cat a turn so no one feels excluded
Step 4: Reintroduce properly after serious fights
- Use separate rooms
- Swap scents using bedding or brushes
- Feed on opposite sides of a closed door
- Gradually allow visual access
- Increase supervised meetings slowly
Myths That Make Cat Fighting Worse
Myth 1: “They’ll work it out.” Repeated fear-based clashes can create long-term anxiety.
Myth 2: “The aggressor is just naughty.” Aggression is usually communication.
Myth 3: “More cuddles will fix it.” Forced contact often backfires.
When to Get Professional Help
Contact your vet or a qualified behaviourist if:
- There are bites or puncture wounds
- One cat stops eating, hides constantly, or avoids the litter tray
- Aggression is sudden or escalating
- Cats remain separated for long periods with no improvement
Final Thought
Cats fighting is upsetting, but it’s also a problem with solutions. Most households see big improvements by reducing competition, building safe territory, and creating positive associations. With the right setup—multiple resources, calm routines, and a clean litter area supported by Pacha Litter—many cats move from conflict to coexistence, and some even become friends.
